Thanksgivukkah 2013

I am fairly anal when it comes to Thanksgiving.  It is my favorite holiday - family, friends, lots of cooking, and no presents required. I spend a good bit of time thinking about the meal, planning the menu and then choreographing the cooking.

This year added a twist.  Chanukah began before Thanksgiving, opening up a whole world of food possibilities to the our dinner.  How do you merge a meal centered around oil with one centered around turkey.  Ok, the obvious is to fry the turkey and be done, but that would be too easy, and I might end up burning the house down.  No, this required more thought and creativity - and for me, a lot of notepaper.

Chanukah Cooking and Traditions

When Jacob was little, we would give him clues to find his present each night.  The number of candles that night equaled the number of clues he would receive, sometimes they were math, sometimes geographic, sometimes in French, occasionally they involved friends or even making a phone call to get the next clue.  Thankfully, Jacob outgrew the treasure hunt - we were running out of ideas for clues.

Our food traditions have stayed fairly constant; latkes of some sort, jelly donuts every so often, and the heart stopping, stomach swelling crispy, deep fried spare ribs.  The recipe calls for pork ribs, but that just seemed wrong for Chanukah, so I used beef back ribs.  Braised until they are falling off the bone, coated in flour and quick fried, then coated in a thick Asian style barbecue sauce, even if they kill you, you will die with a smile on your face. It was clear to me, that this years menu had to include those ribs.

I like to start Thanksgiving with a soup - usually a thick, squash based something or another.  A recipe for pumpkin sage matzo balls intrigued me though, so a clear soup made more sense.  I opted for a simple chicken consumme - a double cooked broth, in theory perfectly clear - except when you put fluffy matzo balls in it whose molecules are held together by a few eggs and a lot of prayer. Truthfully, these did not wow me (I knew I should have added Vodka), but the consumme, rich with chicken essence and a nice splash of sherry was a worthy vessel.

Latkes were also a no brainer.  I knew we would be having lots of starch in the Thanksgiving portion of the meal, so I opted for root vegetable pancakes - carrots, parsnips, onions and potato.  And hate me if you will, I fall on the side of sour cream with my latkes, so that is what I served.  Period.

As for jelly donuts, that tradition needed a slight modification.  Many pies and cakes would be arriving with our guests, guests whose pastry skills make anything I try to bake look like it came from an Easy Bake oven.  I bowed to the master's and went the savory route instead - Cod Beignets.  Salt cod, soaked, cooked in a milk broth, then added to an herbed batter to be fried o a golden brown and served with an herbed yogurt sauce.  No grape jelly oozing onto our laps, but otherwise a nice addition.

Thanksgiving Cooking 

With the added interest of Chanukah in the mix, it made sense to keep the Thanksgiving recipes pretty traditional.  Our turkey is made on the grill, stuffed with onions, lemons and herbs.  Giblet stock, roasted garlic and pan drippings make for a succulent gravy.  Turkey selection has varied over the years.  Butterballs gave way to organic, with the somewhat ironic emphasis on the quality of life of the bird.  I prefer a bird with a pop up timer, which is stupid - those timers often fail to pop, or as happened this year, pop up prematurely (I am smiling, but will not make the obvious joke).

Grilling the turkey, frees up the oven for other uses, speeds up the cooking process, and makes for a moist, flavorful bird.  I use a poultry thermometer to double check the pop up - 180 degrees at the thigh and done.  Just make sure you have a full propane tank before you start.

No turkey is complete without a dollop of cranberry whatever - the 2013 version of which combined cranberries, orange and Chambord (instead or cranberry juice).

The sides were predictable; Brussell Sprouts with Bacon and Lemon (can I just give a plug for Fresh Market - their smoked bacon is ridiculously good),

Sweet Potatoes with Mini Marshmallows and Pecans

and, of course, Mashed Potatoes.  I can confirm that the key to great mashed potatoes is warming the cream and butter before adding them to the cooked potatoes.  I would also suggest using a ricer to mash the potatoes - the less stirring, the fluffier the potatoes.

And stuffing.  What a wonderful invention.  Ours was sausage, fig and chestnut.  It was flavorful, but had I to do it again, I would double the sausage.  Having fig in every bite is fine, but even better if it is accompanied by a chunk of sausage.

Cooking And Choreography

With a thick stack of recipes in hand, and stored on the computer for posterity, timing needed to be considered.  My goal, make as much as possible in advance and then reheat, leaving Thursday free for last minute cleaning, table setting and hopefully a shower.

My schedule:
Monday - Cranberry Relish
Tuesday - Soak cod, make chicken stock, braise ribs
Wednesday - Make beignet batter, make consumme and matzo balls, bake stuffing, assemble sweet potatoes
Thursday Morning - Make yogurt sauce, make latkes, make brussel sprouts, bake sweet potatoes, make mashed potatoes
Thursday Afternoon - Make turkey, fry beignets, roast garlic, make giblet stock, reheat the crap out of everything.

Let me say two things about this.  One, if John Hartranft was not an amazing human with an incredible knack for organizing and cleaning pretty much the entire house, this would not have been possible. Two, if Cheryl Hartranft was not a mind reader, anticipating my every need as the afternoon progressed as well as being a dish washing demon, I would still be asleep.

Did I mention I caught myself on fire at one point?  In a complete Bugs Bunny moment, I checked the oven to see what was burning, because it sure smelled like something was on fire.  Thank you Cheryl for pointing out that the something was me.  Thankfully, while my favorite apron was rendered useless, I was left intact.  On the plus side, the apron was from the gift shop at The Inn at Little Washington - I guess I will have to go back.

One more note - thank you to Christine Brehm for teaching me to properly carve/attack a turkey.  I must admit, I have always been tentative about grabbing drumsticks and cracking joints, but with a few deft moves, Christine had legs and wings separated, and both turkey breast sides off in one piece, ready for carving.

With the dark meat added to the platter, into the soup pot went the carcass, onions, lemons and all, with some fresh herbs to make turkey stock.  A few years ago, our dog Ginger actually dragged the carcass out of the trash can, so this is both a cost effective approach and a means of keeping the house clean.

With the Chanukah and Thanksgiving entrees and sides on the table, what a relief to turn over the reigns to those who have the patience to create pastry marvels.  Pumpkin, pecan, apple (that Jacob hid in the basement fridge and we didn't remember until too late), pumpkin cream, and peanut butter, chocolate cake.  Oh how I love other peoples desserts!

So, here are most of the recipes I worked from.  The grilled turkey recipe is not online, but is simple - wash it, rub it with oil, stuff it with a cut up onion, a cut up lemon, rosemary and thyme salt and pepper inside and out, toss it in a roasting pan (on top of a rack), and grill at 350 ish, basting every 30 minutes or so.

Basic Brown Chicken Broth
Pumpkin Sage Matzo Balls
Salt Cod Beignets With Herbed Yogurt
Root Vegetable Latkes
Crispy Deep Fried Spare Ribs
Perfect Mashed Potatoes
Candied Sweet Potatoes with Pecans
Sausage, Chestnut and Fig Stuffing
Cranberry Relish
Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lemon and Bacon

I hope you all had an fun filled Thanksgiving. and I wish you a holiday season full of miracles.  As for me, I have some leftovers to reheat.

Red Lentil and Coconut Soup with Black Rice, Tumeric and Greens

Taken from Vegetable Literacy, by Deborah Madison, this is absolutely one of the tastiest lentil dishes I have made in a while. The richness of the coconut milk, the bright acidity of the limes, the creaminess of the lentils and slight chewiness of the black rice make a wonderful combination. And don't leave out the tumeric - besides giving the dish a lovely yellow backdrop, it is SO good for you. If tumeric were human, it would be Superman.

Click here for more on tumeric.

Start to finish, this takes about an hour. No meat required, but the braised chicken I added did make a nice addition.

Ingredients
1 1/4 C red lentils
2 Tbsn ghee or sesame oil (I used sesame oil)
1 large onion, finely diced
1 tspn ground tumeric
1 tspn curry powder
2 tspn ground cumin (I was out of cumin, I added a tspn of coriander - I know, they are not interchangeable)
2 tspn black or yellow mustard seeds
Minced cilantro stems from one bunch of cilantro
1 (15 oz) can light coconut milk
4 C water
Sea salt
Juice of 2-3 limes
Few handfuls of tender greens (spinach, chard) (I used a bunch of chard)
3 to 4 Tbsn coconut butter (I left this out - it tasted too good without it, I saw no reason to add the extra calories on top of the coconut milk.)

To Finish
About 1 cup cooked black rice
Red pepper flakes
Ground black pepper
Yogurt (since I topped the lentils and rice with sliced, braised chicken thighs, I left this out)

Rinse the lentils, cover with cold water, and set aside while you dice the onion and sauté the onion mixture.

Heat the ghee (or oil) in a soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion, stir, and cook gently until it begins to soften, about 6 minutes. Add the spices and cilantro stems. Stir once more, and cook for several minutes longer.

Drain the lentils and add them to the onion mixture. Stir in the coconut milk and add 4 cups water and 2 tspn salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, cover partially, and cook until the lentils have broken down into a purée. Give them a stir every 5 minutes or so. They should be done after 20 minutes, but they can go another 10 min if you want them smoother.

When the soup is done, stir in the lime juice to taste, then taste for salt. (I used 2 1/2 limes, and added a tspn or two of salt - make sure you taste as you add). At the last minute, drop in the greens and cook just long enough for them to turn bright green and tender. Just before serving, stir in the coconut butter. (Or not)

Ladle the soup into shallow bowls. Add a large spoonful of black rice, a pinch of red pepper flakes, and a good twist of black pepper to each. Spoon yogurt around the rice and serve.






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Location:Rockville, MD

Gluten Free Rosemary Chestnut Muffins

When it comes to baking, I am a novice.  When it comes to creating baked recipes, I am two steps below a novice.  However, with a container of gluten free flour mix burning a proverbial hole in my pocket, I had the urge to experiment.

I had chestnut flour already from another recipe, so I decided to rework the cornbread recipe to a chestnut muffin.  Chestnut flour can become very dense, very fast, so a little goes a long way. Understanding the role of each ingredient is key with baking - I am trying hard to learn to balance these different chemistries to create specific textures and flavours.

The following recipe is a start, but there is lots of room for improvement (all suggestions are welcome). The result was more in the popover family than the muffin family - fairly light and airy, a little bit eggy. However, the top was a bit chewy, a little too elastic - maybe using only one egg would solve that.  It is moist - but again, to cross back over to muffindom, maybe a little less sourcream.  There are multiple leavening agents at work here too - the xanthan gum and the baking powder may be a bit too much - maybe only one tspn of baking powder is necessary.  Don't skimp on the honey, though - the chestnut flour needs that added sweetness, and I would probably add another 1/4c of the chestnut flour to get more of that flavor.

Gluten Free Rosemary Chestnut Muffins
1/4 C Crisco
3 Tbsn Honey
2 Large Eggs
3/4 C Sour Cream
1/2 C Milk
1 C Gluten Free Flour Blend
(2 C rice flour, 2/3 C Potato Starch, 1/3 C tapioca Flour, 1 tspn Xanthan Gum)
1/2 C Chestnut Flour
2 tspns Gluten Free Baking Powder (I used regular)
2 tbsn Fresh Rosemary
1 tspn salt 


Heat oven to 425 deg F.  (Next time I will start with 375 deg and go a bit longer - the bottoms were a bit dark by the time the inside was done).

Combine shortening and honey in a large bowl.  Beat at medium speed, scraping bowl often until creamy.  Add eggs, mix well.  Stir in sour cream and milk.  Reduce speed to low; add all remaining ingredients.  Beat until just mixed.

Pour batter into a  greased muffin tin.  Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, or until golden brown and toothpick in center comes out clean.  Serve warm.  

Serve with honey butter or apple butter (an excellent suggestion from John Hartranft).

Sour Cream Corn Bread (Gluten Free)

I made gluten free corn bread last night, mainly out of curiosity.  Don't get me wrong, I have dramatically reduced my gluten and wheat intake, with positive results, but this was about playing with new ingredients.

As I trundled down the grocery aisle, with a number of unfamiliar faces in my cart, I realized I had no real idea what the role of these new ingredients were in this recipe.  Time for a bit of research...

Tapioca Flour

Also known as tapioca starch, tapioca flour, made from cassava root,  is used as an alternative to wheat flour, helping to bind gluten free recipes and improve texture of baked goods.  It adds crispness in crusts and chew to breads and cookies, as well as being a great thickener in sauces and soups - it never discolors and has no discernible taste or smell.

Xanthan Gum

Basically, a bacterium that is allowed to ferment on a sugar, then dried and milled to create a powder, xanthan gum is used to imitate gluten in gluten free baking.  It gives dough elasticity, holds cookies together, and helps cakes rise and stay light.  It also is an excellent emulsifier and thickener, and creates a creamy texture.

So, now I have a container of fake wheat flour to mix with things like corn meal for gluten free baking. Perhaps a mix with chestnut flour, honey and rosemary - I'm thinking muffins.  But I digress.  Here is the recipe for Gluten Free Corn Bread:

Sour Cream Corn Bread (from Land O lakes)
1/4 C Butter (I used Crisco instead)
3 Tbsn Sugar
2 Large Eggs
1/2 C Sour Cream
1/2 C Milk
1 C Gluten Free Flour Blend
(2 C rice flour, 2/3 C Potato Starch, 1/3 C tapioca Flour, 1 tspn Xanthan Gum)
2/3 C Yelow Corn Meal
2 tspns Gluten Free Baking Powder (I used regular)
1/2 tspn salt (I don't want to oversalt, but 1 tspn instead would definitely increase the flavor)
(I added sage and cayenne pepper for a bit of kick.  I also think corn kernels would be a good addition, as well as green chilis)

Heat oven to 425 deg F.

Combine softened butter and sugar in a large bowl.  Beat at medium speed, scraping bowl often until creamy.  Add eggs, mix well.  Stir in sour cream and milk.  Reduce speed to low; add all remaining ingredients.  Beat until just mixed.

Pour batter into greased 8 inch square baking pan. (I baked mine in a cast iron skillet).  Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, or until golden brown and toothpick in center comes out clean.  Serve warm.


The result is pleasant enough.  It does not have the wonderful, sweet graininess of standard corn bread though.  Rather, it lighter and breadier.  Maybe a little less baking powder?  Maybe a bit more corn meal?  I suppose more experimentation is in order.  Nevertheless, it is pleasant, and was an excellent accompaniment to the vegetable chili that you will see here next...

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Chard, Ricotta and Saffron Cakes

Chard, ricotta and saffron. In a pancake. With sour cream on top. Can you say comfort food? The chard gives this an earthy flavor, the ricotta adds depth to the texture, and saffron makes it look and smell lovely. The trifecta.



Saffron is made from the saffron crocus.

Someone interesting saffron facts:

Saffron used to be used by Greek courtesans (prostitutes for the royals and wealthy men) as a perfume on behalf of its pleasant aroma.

In the Middle Ages, one could be sentenced to the punishment of being buried alive if they tried to alter saffron by adding in other substances. This would make the saffron not pure, but unknown to others, mixed with other materials to increase the quantity and weight of the substance. Therefore the seller would illegally make more money off of the saffron.

In order to cure hang-overs, Romans would sleep with expensive pillows that were stuffed with saffron.

It takes about 75,000 crocus flowers to make one pound of saffron spice.
4,500 crocus flowers make up one ounce of saffron spice.



Saffron can cost up to $315/oz. to $5,040/lb. WHAT?!!!

Elderly women are usually given the job of removing the saffron stigmas from the crocus flowers, a very strenuous job, because there are no machines that can separate these three delicate stigmas from the flower.


The beauty of saffron is that it can be used sparingly and still impart fabulous aroma and color. It can take a long time to go through even an ounce. Good thing - especially at those prices!


This recipe is from "Vegetable Literacy", by Deborah Madison. Awesome vegetable and grains cookbook, beautifully written and photographed.

Chard, Ricotta and Saffron Cakes

Ingredients
12 cups trimmed chard leaves Make sure you rinse these really well or they are likely to be gritty
2 pinches saffron threads
1 cup white whole wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup ricotta cheeseI used whole milk ricotta to give the cake more moisture - I'm sure the world won't end if you use skim
1/3 cup or more grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 cup milk
2 eggs
3 tablespoons olive oil or ghee, plus extra for frying
thick yogurt or sour cream, to finish
micro greens or slivered basil leaves, to finish
Boiled, diced baby beets for garnish

Directions:
Wash the chard, drain and put it in a pot with the water clinging to the leaves. Cover and cook over high heat until wilted. You want the chard to be tender but not overcooked, so keep an eye on it and taste it frequently. Add a few splashes of water if the pot threatens to dry out. When the chard is done, put it in a colander to cool and drain.

Cover the saffron threads with 2 tablespoons boiling water and set aside.

Combine the flour, salt and baking powder in a bowl. In a second larger bowl, mix together the ricotta, Parmesan, milk, and eggs until blended. Add the oil and the saffron, then whisk in the flour mixture. Returning to the chard, squeeze out as much water as possible, then chop it finely and stir it into the batter.

Heat a few teaspoons olive oil or ghee in a skillet over medium heat. Drop the batter by the spoonful into the hot pan, making small or larger cakes as you wish. The batter is quite thick and it will not behave like a pancake. You need to give it plenty of time in the pan to cook through. Cook until golden on the bottom, then turn the cakes once, resisting any urge to pat them down, and cook until the second side is also well colored, maybe 3 minutes per side, or longer. I found 2 minutes per side to be enough - it will depend on your stove - pay close attention

Serve each cake with a tiny spoonful of sour cream and a finish of diced beets and beet thinnings.

This is a really easy recipe to make, and the pancakes are satisfying without being heavy.

Enjoy!

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Location:S Adams St,Rockville,United States

Stuffed Romano Peppers

When a master chef's Mom talks, I listen. This recipe, from Yotam Ottolenghi's Mom, caught my eye, in my continuing trek through "Jerusalem". The flavors are delicate, and even the tomato sauce the peppers sit in to steam, ends up being delicious. Having made the recipe, there are some tweaks I would like to try, to coax a bit more flavor from the lamb, but overall, nice flavors and textures.




Ruth's Stuffed Romano Peppers

8 Romano or other sweet peppers If you use bell peppers , you will need a deeper pot, and may want to steam them a bit longer, due to the thicker skin. I could not find sweet long red peppers, but the green worked fine - just not the sweetness that I associate with a red bell pepper
1 large tomato coarsely chopped I used canned Italian diced tomatoes
2 medium onions
2 C veg stock

Stuffing
3/4 C Basmati Rice Go easy on the rice, I felt like it overpowered the meat a bit
1 1/2 Tbsn Baharat Seasoning You can buy this as a mix or make it yourself. I'll post the recipe below
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
2 Tbsn olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
14 oz ground lamb I only had about 12 oz - it really wasn't enough - the lamb is so delicate, it really needs enough presence
2 1/2 Tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
2 Tbsn chopped dill
1 1/2 Tbsn dried mint
1 1/2 tsp sugar
Salt and ground black pepper

Make the Stuffing

Place the rice in a saucepan and cover with lightly salted water. Bring to a boil, then cook for 4 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold water and set aside.

Dry fry the spices in a frying pan. Add the olive oil and onion and fry for about 7 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is soft. Pour this, along with the rice, meat, herbs, sugar and 1 tsp salt into a large mixing bowl. Use your hands to mix everything together. I found the lamb sort of disappeared behind the rice. Maybe a bit more salt would help. Part of me wonders if lightly browning the lamb with a bit of salt would elevate the flavor a bit. I also think it may be possible to skip the first step and let the steaming process cook the rice. If you do that, be sure to rinse the rice really well first, or it will be too starchy

Now the peppers

Starting form the stalk end, use a small knife to cut lengthwise three quarters of the way down each pepper, without removing the stalk, creating a long opening. Without forcing the pepper open too much, remove the seeds and then stuff each pepper with an equal amount of the mixture.

Place the chopped tomato and onion in a very large frying pan for which you have a tight fitting lid. Arrange the peppers on top, close together, and pour in just enough stock so that it come 1/8 inch up the sides of the peppers.


There were only two of us, so I did not make more than we could consume.

Season with 1/2 tsp salt and some black pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and simmer over the lowest possible heat for an hour. It is important that the filling is just steamed, so he lid must fit tightly; make sure there is always a little bit of liquid at the bottom of the pan. Serve the peppers warm, not hot, or at room temperature.

Enjoy!

Baharat Seasoning
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 small cinnamon stick, coarse lay chopped
1/2 tsp whole cloves
1/2 tsp ground allspice
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp cardamom pods
1/2 whole nutmeg, grated

Place all spices in spice grinder and grind till a fine powder is formed. Store in an air tight container for up to 8 weeks.









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Location:Rockville, MD

Cod Cakes in Tomato Sauce

In my quest to cook my way through "Jerusalem", literally and figuratively, I bring you cod cakes in tomato sauce. Billed as typical of Syrian Jews, this dish combines a vibrant, aromatic sauce with flaky, delicate cakes full of savory flavors.

SERVES 4
make sure all ingredients are finely chopped to easily form the cod cakes
white bread, crusts removed 3 slices
cod (sustainably sourced), halibut, hake or pollock fillet, skinless and boneless 1 1/3 lb/600g
medium onion 1, finely chopped
garlic cloves 4, crushed
flat-leaf parsley 1 oz/30g, finely chopped
cilantro 1 oz/30g, finely chopped
ground cumin 1 tbsp
salt 1 tsp
large free-range eggs 2, beaten
olive oil 4 tbsp

For the tomato sauce
olive oil 2 tbsp
ground cumin 1 tsp
sweet paprika ½ tsp
ground coriander 1 tsp
medium onion 1, chopped
white wine 125ml/1/2 cup
chopped tomatoes 400g/14 oz tin I know, broken record, nevertheless, use Italian tomatoes - they taste so much better
red chilli 1, deseeded and finely chopped
garlic clove 1, crushed
caster sugar 2 tsp
mint leaves 2 tbsp, roughly chopped
salt and black pepper

First make the tomato sauce. Heat the olive oil in a very large frying pan for which you have a lid, and add the spices and onion. Cook for 8-10 minutes, until the onion is completely soft. Add the wine and simmer for 3 minutes. Make sure you cook off the alcohol before adding the tomatoes. Add the tomatoes, chilli, garlic, sugar, ½ tsp of salt and some black pepper. Simmer for about 15 minutes, until quite thick, taste to adjust the seasoning and set aside. This is a really versatile sauce - I plan to use it with other proteins and pasta dishes. I'm thinking it would be great with shrimp and penne. I also think kalamata olives are a natural addition to this sauce

While the sauce is cooking make the fish cakes. Place the bread in a food processor and blitz to form breadcrumbs. Chop up the fish very finely and place in a bowl with the bread and everything else, apart from the olive oil. Mix well and then, using your hands, shape the mixture into compact cakes, about 3/4"/2cm thick and 3 1/4"/8cm wide. The mixture should make 8 cakes. If they are very soft, refrigerate for 30 minutes to firm up. You can add dry breadcrumbs if necessary, but try not to - the cakes should be fairly wet. Heat up half the oil in a frying pan and sear the cakes for 3 minutes on each side, so they colour well.




Add the remaining oil as you fry the cakes. Place the seared cakes gently, side by side, in the tomato sauce. Add enough water to partially cover the cakes, about 1 cup/200ml. Cover the pan with the lid and simmer on a very low heat for 15-20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the cakes to settle, uncovered, for at least 10 minutes before serving warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with mint. The mint adds a bit of color, but I did not find it to be essential.

Enjoy!


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Location:Rockville, MD